A khiyt (winter) dispatch from Witsuwit’en yintah (territories)

Hagwilnekhlh Ron A. Mitchell, Chief of Cinegh Lhay Yikh (House of Many Eyes) in Likhsilyu (Frog Clan), addresses Witsuwit’en delegates during a ceremonial gathering in front of the K’ëgit totem pole at the Quai Branly Museum in Paris in October 2024. Photo: Mélanie H. Morin

By Hagwilnekhlh Ron Mitchell, Dzïggot Ron Austin, ’Ilhdesinon Birdy Markert, We’es Tes Sandra Martin Harris, Jean Matheson, Diana Wilson, Toni Michell, Drew Harris, Helen Harris, Tyler McCreary, Joanne Connauton, Mélanie H. Morin

In October 2024, a delegation of Witsuwit’en hereditary chiefs, elders, artists, and youth embarked on an emotional and historic journey to Paris, France. Their goal was to reconnect with a significant piece of their cultural heritage—the K’ëgit totem pole belonging to C’idimsggin’ïs, housed at the Quai Branly Museum.

This journey, deeply rooted in cultural revitalization and healing, was an opportunity to see and honour the totem pole that was taken from Witsuwit’en lands in 1938. For many of the delegation members, this trip was more than just a visit; it was a powerful act of reclamation and a step towards strengthening their connection to their ancestors and cultural identity.

A history of displacement

In 1938, surrealist artist Kurt Seligmann travelled to British Columbia, seeking to purchase a Northwest Coast Indigenous totem pole. After corresponding with anthropologist Marius Barbeau, he learned of the K’ëgit pole, one of the oldest and most intricately carved poles, which stood in the Witsuwit’en village of Tsë Cakh (Hagwilget). Despite the significance of the pole to Witsuwit’en cultural and spiritual identity, the local Indian Agent pressured Likhsilyu House Chief Hagwilnekhlh Arthur Michell and his relatives into selling it for a mere $100.

The pole was taken down, broken into pieces, and shipped by train and boat to Paris. After being reassembled, it was first displayed outside the Musée de l’Homme (Museum of Man). In 2001, it was further restored and transferred to the Quai Branly Museum, where it now resides inside near the visitor information desk.

For Hagwilnekhlh Ron Mitchell, the current House Chief of C’inegh Lhay Yikh, the trip was bittersweet. “It’s quite emotional when I think about our people. I will be happy to see the totem pole and a part of our house and chief’s history, but sad at the same time. I was disheartened when I heard that they took it apart to move it. They should never have done that without understanding what it means to our people.”

The delegation, including Witsuwit’en chiefs, elders, artists, and youth, as well as researchers and educators, reconnects with the K’ëgit totem pole 86 years after its removal. Back row: Dzïggot Ron Austin & Tyler McCreary. Middle row: Brad Markert, Hagwilnekhlh Ron Mitchell, ’Ilhdesinon Birdy Markert, We’es Tes Sandra Martin Harris, Jean Matheson, Joanne Connauton, & Diana Wilson. Front row: Mélanie H. Morin, Drew Harris, Toni Michell, and Helen Harris. Photo: Mélanie H. Morin

Youth perspectives: reconnecting and rediscovering

For many of the youth on the trip, this experience was transformative. It allowed them to see firsthand the impact of colonization on their heritage while also inspiring them to deepen their connection to their language and traditions.

Diana Wilson, one of the youth delegates, reflected on the sense of unity created during the trip: “I have been working on learning the Witsuwit’en language and culture, and never dreamed I’d be invited to go on a trip like this with my people. We all became so much like a family crew.”

For Drew Harris, the journey sparked a newfound commitment to her cultural identity. “I wasn’t very involved in learning about my Witsuwit’en lineage, and this experience has motivated me to do so,” she shared.

In addition to visiting the Quai Branly Museum, the group also took the opportunity to visit the Eiffel Tower and Juno Beach. These are sites deeply connected to Witsuwit’en war veterans, who participated in the liberation of France only to find themselves sleeping in the park beneath the Eiffel Tower after being denied access to accommodations in Paris on the basis of their race. Jean Matheson expressed gratitude for these experiences, stating, “It was great to have the additional opportunity to visit the Eiffel Tower and Juno Beach, as it connects to our Witsuwit’en history and war veterans.”

The Witsuwit’en delegation members prepare for a ceremony to honour Witsuwit’en veterans at Juno Beach in Normandy. Photo: Toni Michell

The emotional reunion with K’ëgit

Master Carver Dzïggot Ron Austin, who has long dreamed of seeing the K’ëgit pole, was deeply moved by the reunion. “It’s an amazing opportunity to see the pole that may have belonged to my grandmother’s older brother, C’idimsggin’ïs. It means a lot as an artist to see what my ancestors created before me in person.”

For Toni Michell, the experience was overwhelmingly emotional. “It was such an emotional experience being reunited with K’ëgit, and we need to return K’ëgit back to our homelands. K’ëgit has been away far too long.”

Even after the delegation left, the connection to the totem pole remained strong. Helen Harris reflected on her farewell to K’ëgit: “Since saying nenyust’ën’ (see you later), I’ve been sending K’ëgit love from across the ocean.”

Ts’akë ze’ ’Ilhdesinon Birdy Markert also experienced a shift in perspective during the trip. “When we first began this voyage, I was set on keeping the pole where it was and to begin a cross-cultural exchange, but when I came face to face with K’ëgit, I knew I wanted its return.”

Hagwilnekhlh Ron A. Mitchell and Dzïggot Ron Austin stand solemnly during K’ëgit totem pole ceremony. Photo: Mélanie H. Morin

Restoring relations and revitalizing culture

The delegation’s visit to the Quai Branly Museum was not just about seeing the totem pole; it was about reclaiming Witsuwit’en history and restoring cultural connections that had been severed by colonial forces. Ts’akë ze’ We’es Tes Sandra Martin Harris emphasized the significance of totem poles in Witsuwit’en identity: “Our stories shared on ts’an (totem poles) are such an integral part of our crests, names, identity, and connection to the yintah (territories) in our Clans, House Groups, and villages. We did not get to witness its life force while it stood firmly on the land for all to witness.”

The trip was made possible through collaboration between the Likhsilyu Clan, Kyah Wiget Education Society, Florida State University, York University, Bulkley Valley Museum, and School District 54 (Bulkley Valley). Funding was generously provided by the Wetzin’kwa Community Forest Corporation, British Columbia Network Environment for Indigenous Health Research, and Bulkley Valley Community Foundation.

Looking to the future

The delegation’s visit was a powerful reminder of the resilience of Witsuwit’en culture and the importance of ongoing efforts to revitalize traditions, language, and identity. The trip not only strengthened intergenerational connections but also sparked important conversations about cultural restitution and the future of the K’ëgit pole.

While the pole remains in Paris for now, the bonds rekindled between the delegation and their heritage signal a future where Witsuwit’en culture continues to thrive, especially songs, stories, and language. As the youth who travelled to Paris returned home, they bring with them a renewed sense of purpose and pride in their identity—and a deepened commitment to ensuring that the stories of their ancestors, carved into totem poles like K’ëgit, are never forgotten.

Delegation Members

• Hagwilnekhlh Ron Mitchell, Witsuwit’en Head Chief of Cinegh Lhay Yikh of Likhsilyu and Witsuwit’en Language Instructor.
• Dzïggot Ron Austin, Witsuwit’en Chief in Cinegh Lhay Yikh of Likhsilyu and Witsuwit’en Artist.
• ’Ilhdesinon Birdy Markert, Witsuwit’en Matriarch in Cinegh Lhay Yikh of Likhsilyu and District Principal of Indigenous Education for School District 54.
• We’es Tes Sandra Martin Harris, Witsuwit’en Matriarch in Cinegh Lhay Yikh of Likhsilyu and Indigenous Focusing-Orientated Therapy (IFOT) and Reiki Practitioner.
• Jean Matheson, Witsuwit’en Member of C’inegh Lhay Yikh in Likhsilyu and Witsuwit’en Language Learner.
• Diana Wilson, Witsuwit’en Member of Cas Yikh in Gidimt’en and Witsuwit’en Language Learner.
• Toni Michell, Witsuwit’en Member of C’inegh Lhay Yikh in Likhsilyu and Witsuwit’en Language Learner.
• Drew Harris, Witsuwit’en Member of C’inegh Lhay Yikh in Likhsilyu.
• Helen Harris, Witsuwit’en Member of Tsë Kal Kiyikh in Likhsilyu, Community Language & Culture Department Coordinator for Kyah Wiget Education Society, and Witsuwit’en Language Learner.
• Tyler McCreary, PhD, Associate Professor in Department of Geography at Florida State University.
• Joanne Connauton, MA, Member of Wahnapitae First Nation and PhD candidate in Department of Geography at Florida State University.
• Mélanie H. Morin, Bulkley Valley Museum Staff Researcher.